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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.